Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
