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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.